Method of performing operations incidental to machine-embroidery.



H. BOSSHARDT, SR. METHOD OF PERFORMING OPERATIONS INCIDENTAL TO MACHINE EMBROIDERY.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 26, 1911.

Patented June 18, 1912.

2 SflEETS-SHEET 1.

I WITNESSES jwmw/M' H. BOSSHARDT, Sn. METHOD OF PERFORMING OPERATIONS INCIDENTAL T0 MACHINE EMBROIDERY.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 26, 1911. 1,030, 1 59.

Patented June 18, 1912.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

WITNESSES v I/VVEIVTOR figmgfioss/mrdz i v By ATTORNEYS COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH c0., WASHINGTON, D. c.

HENRY BOSSHARDT, SR., OF WEST HOBOKEN, NEW JERSEY.

METHOD OF PERFORMING OPERATIONS INCIDENTAL TO MACHINE-EMBROIDERY.

Specification of Letters Patent Application filed July 26, 1911.

Patented June 18, 1912. Serial No. 640,610.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HENRY BOSSHARDT, S12, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of West Hoboken, in the county of Hudson and State of New Jersey, have iu vented a new and Improved Method of Performing Operations Incidental to Machine- Embroidery, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

My invention relates in general to a method of performing operations incidental to machine embroidery, and particularly to a method of forming a combined colorfilled and embroidered fabric where figures are stenciled on the fabric instead of forming said figures by means of a color covering or leaf stitch, and relates more particularly to a method of pantographically forming a duplication of the figures on a pattern blank and in forming outlining stitches bounding said figures after the same are stenciled on the fabric.

In explanation of the present advance in the art, it is noted that in one of two methods now commonly used to obtain tinted or colored areas in embroidered designs where the stenciling method is used, the outlines of the areas to be colored are cut away by hand after the fabric is embroidered and different colored materials are sewed to the back of the embroidered fabric, to correspond with the filled in portions of the pattern. It is obvious that this method is slow and expensive, and unless great care is taken in cutting out the designs, a very ragged and unfinished effect is produced. Further, the product is very apt to be uneven and offer a patched effect owing to the two or more thicknesses of material. By the second method the fabric along the desired outline is painted in by hand with the preferred combination of colors after the figures have been embroidered in outline. It is readily seen that by this method, it is almost impossible to paint up to the outlining stitches without either touching them or leaving a ragged painted edge.

Attempts have been made to first paint the design on the blank fabric and afterward stitch in the outlines, but it was found impossible to make the edges of the painted areas coincide with the stitches outlining the figures comprising the design, especially where machine devices were utilized in carrying out, as far as possible, certain steps of the process.

One of the objects of my invention is to overcome the above-indicated objections by forming a stencil pantographically on an embroidering machine, by the use of which stencil a combined tinted and embroidered fabric may be formed in one piece, and in which the edges of the tinted areas must necessarily coincide with the embroidered stitches bordering the said tinted areas.

' I will describe the invention in connection with certain features of a known form of embroidering machine that I may utilize in carrying out certain steps of my improved method, but it is to be understood that the description of this method in which reference is made to an embroidering machine, is but a disclosure of one means to perform the method, and that I may make use of any form of machine or may even construct a new machine in order to perform mechanically certain steps of the process.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, in which similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in all the figures, and in which- Figure 1 is a front elevation of part of a pantograph embroidering machine, details of the same being omitted for clearness, and showing a punctured stencil card sewed to the blank fabric in the floating frame; Fig. 2 is a plan of the stencil showing from right to left, three successive steps in its preparation; Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 1 showing the cut-out stencil in place with the stenciled areas showing through the cut-out portions of the stencil; and Fig. 4: is a fragmentary view showing the finished embroidered and tinted fabric.

Briefly, the method consists in imposing a stencil blank on a fabric, delineating on the fabric the outlines of figures copied from ,a pattern, the locating of the stencil blank on the fabric, the removing of the stencil to cut out the design sodelineated, the relocating of the stencil at its original position on the fabric, the stenciling in of the cut-out design on the fabric, and the stitching of the outlines of said stenciled design.

The pantograph embroidering machine readily adapts itself to certain steps of my improved process, and in carrying out my invention in correspondence with the example herein disclosed, a brief description is given of the essential parts of a pantograph embroidering machine in which it is to be understood that there is a supporting framework 5 carrying a floating frame 6, which frame is adapted to carry the blank fabric 7 which it is desired to stencil and embroider. As is common with devices of this character, the frame 6 is supported and moved in a horizontal or vertical direction in the same plane, by means of a pantograph 8, the pointer 9 of which is adapted to be moved over the usual enlarged pattern 10, fixed upon a pattern board 11, the movement of which pointer will be communicated to the frame 6, to bring the designs in position with reference to the embroidering needle 12 of each of the multiple designs to the port-ion of the design corresponding to the portion of the pattern opposite the pointer 9. In other words, there is disclosed in the drawings the essential features of the ordinary pantograph embroidering machine.

Vith the desired pattern positioned on the pattern board and the blank fabric stretched on the frame 6, my novel method consists in sewing or otherwise temporarily affixing a stencil blank 13 to the blank fabric. Suppose that it is desired to reproduce the design shown on the pattern in which the reproduction of the centrally-disposed triangle 14 is to be tinted or stenciled with some color or combination of colors differing from the color of the blank fabric 7, and, further, that it is desired to outline this stenciled area by means of some form of stepped or out-lining stitches 15, as in the finished piece shown in Fig. 4, the pointer 9 is moved step by step along the outline on the pattern and at each step the embroidering needle 12 is caused to punch the stencil blank with spaced-apart apertures 17, as shown to the right of Fig. 2. This outline may be duplicated pantographically across the bed of the fabric depending upon the number of needles 12 used. When the desired outline of the pattern has been punched, the pointer 9 is carried to some starting point or point of reference 18, which I will designate as an origin. With the pantograph pointer covering the origin 18, said pantograph will be brought into the position shown in dotted lines in Fig. 3, the needle 12 being brought into position to engage the stencil blank at a point 18 corresponding with the similarly located point 011 the pattern.

After punching the stencil blank the needles are left in this posit-ion while the punched stencil 13 is removed by cutting away the holding stitches 19. Leaving the needles in this position in the fabric will afford a means for replacing the stencil after it has been cut away, back in its original place, but it is not an absolutelynecessary feature of this method that the stencil be replaced in its original location, this step being merely for the purpose of duplicating the design on the stencil in the exact reproduction of the pattern and in their correct relative positions. The areas outlined by the apertures 17 in the stencil blank is then cut away, preferably by placing the stencil blank in a punching machine, to further perforate the stencil between the apertures 17 with fine, closely disposed apertures 20, as shown in the center of Fig. 2. This will readily permit the punched areas 21 to be pressed out by the thumb or severed by a knife, The cut-out portion will form a stencil having a,line of openings 22. The completed stencil is replaced on the blank fabric carried by the floating frame of the machine, locating the same in its original position by hanging the stencil on thencedles 12, preferably by inserting the stencil so that the needles will be positioned in the perforations 18. If the location of the stencil on the fabric has not been set as hereinbefore indicated, the pointer is now placed at the origin 18 or some other definite point on the pattern, and the needles moved through to locate the positions of the perforations 18 on the fabric and stencil.

By means-of a suitable brush, the fabric is stenciled through the cut-away portions 22, stenciling to the edges 24. Removing the stencil, there is left a tinted area 23, as shown in Figs. 3 and 4:- The pointer is then removed from the origin 18 to the edge 16 of the figure on the pattern, and the stenciled area outlined by a stitch of any desired color, which stitch may be a step stitch 2-1 or any other desired outlining stitch common in machine embroidery work. It will be seen that the exact shape of the area tinted was taken from the pattern, transferred to the stencil and from the stencil directed to the fabric, so that not only will the exact shape be transferred to the blank fabric, but its location with reference to the embroidering needles is definitely and accurately fixed. Further, if desired, any other form of embroidering stitch may be used to complete a fanciful design, and, as shown in the disclosure, the stenciled areas may be surrounded by circles or leaf stitch ellipses 25 and the points 18 may be worked over by means of some fancy stitch 26 orbuttonholed, as desired, but this last step is no part of the novel method.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

1. In the production of designs on a fabric mounted on a pantograph embroidering machine, the method consisting of temporarily fastening a blank stencil card on the fabric; placing the pantograph pointer at an origin on the pattern carried by the embroidering machine; actuating the embroidering needles of the machine to mark corresponding points on the stencil; actuating the pantograph pointer step by step to shift the stencil card relative to the needles; intermittently actuating the needles to puncture the stencil at the points thus presented to the needles; removing the stencil card from the machine and removing the punched areas from the card; relocating the fabric relative to the needles by positioning the pointer at the origin on the pattern; forcing the needles through the fabric; relocating the stencil With its marked origin on the needles, and finally stenciling in the design represented by the removed portions.

2. In the production of color filled embroidered figures, the method consisting of pantographically actuating a stencil blank to cause embroidering needles to delineate in -ing the embroidering needles to again go overthe paths previously traversed thereby in pantographically delineating the figures in the stencil blank.

In testimony whereof I have signed my nameto this specification in the presence of tWo subscribing witnesses.

' HENRY BOSSHARDT, SR. Vitnesses JAMES J. CURTIs, JAMES H. CURTIS.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C. 

